In Tehran there is a widely held belief that
substantive differences exist between those who live in the north and south.
Many see this issue as a historical one. When Iran was modernizing in the early
to mid-20th century under Reza Shah Pahlavi, the aristocracy and the moneyed
classes largely moved to the northern parts of town, whereas the poor and
working classes (and many traditional ones) stayed put in south Tehran. Valiasr Street, the longest north-south
street in Tehran, serves as the most frequent point of reference when asking
where in Tehran a new acquaintance lives. A lot hangs on the answer, too, and
it can even have implications among friends and loved ones. Tehranis derive a
sense of respectability from being able to provide the right answer to this
question, to strangers at parties, whose smiles grow wider and wider depending
on how far north an address is located. Even at work, the question is not
uncommon, and people use it as a standard to judge others and rely on it as an
indicator of how they can expect to be treated.
welcome
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
Small houses
In Iran, like
many other big cities, people generally rent apartments by paying both a
monthly rent as well as a security deposit. Some landlords prefer to get most
if not all of the money up front. In Tehran, for every 30,000 tomans of monthly
rent, a 1 million toman - or 10 million rials - security deposit is generally
required [$300 US]. Renting without a security deposit is virtually unheard of.
The monthly rent on my quiet apartment on Daman Afshardar Street was 1.95
million tomans, for which I had paid a 15 million security deposit. I’m now
willing to pay up to 2.4 million a month for a bigger place (70 square meters
at least). I have also managed to save up an additional 15 million tomans over
a one-year period to double the size of the security deposit I can afford to
put down for something in an acceptable neighborhood.
Stylish apartments
The lease on my old 55-square-meter apartment
in Tehran is up, and that means another long, arduous search for a new place.
My landlord’s excuse for driving me out this time was that his daughter, who is
coming back to Tehran from Canada in May, needs a place of her own. As the
Persian New Year begins, I begin my search for a better place than the one I’ve
just been kicked out of: a ground floor unit in a 40-year-old, three story,
11-unit building on Daman Afshardar Street near Vanak Square.
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